Lord Howe really is Lord Wow

Apparently only 49 per cent of Australians are aware of this tiny remote island, which is about a two-hour flight east from Brisbane or Sydney.

Put simply, it is an island paradise. It is the complete beach holiday package.

Family friendly. Tick.

Golf course. Tick.

Gorgeous beaches. Tick.

Great fishing. Tick.

Plenty of accommodation choices. Tick.

Rare birdlife. Tick.

Rugged Mountain walks. Tick.

World-class snorkelling. Tick.

There are only 350 locals and visitor numbers has been capped at 400, which mean this 11km long and 2km wide (at the widest point) island is never crowded – summer or winter.

I sat next to the island school’s new headmaster on the QantasLink flight over. He told me the school has a no shoes policy. How good is that? No shoes, no shirt, no problem as the great country musician Kenny Chesney would say.

My plane touched down just after lunch and on the way to Arajilla Retreat our driver gave us the quick island tour. He pulled the van up at Neds Beach, on the northeast part of the island, and told us that at dawn and sunset you can wade into the water and hand feed the fish. We are not talking small fish. These hungry creatures were monsters.

Arajilla is a family-owned and managed luxury retreat, hidden behind and under the famous Kentia palms, just a short stroll from Old Settlement beach — this one known for its turtles.

It’s the complete package

Once you book in, all meals, afternoon tea and cakes, pre-dinner drinks and canapés are included in the room rate.

Arajilla’s open-air guest lounge is the communal hub for guests. It is where fishermen tell tall tales of the big catch of the day; where guests relax and read; where sporadic internet is available; and where some of the finest dining on the island is to be enjoyed.

It is easy to drop off the planet on Lord Howe. There’s no mobile coverage. No Foxtel. And sadly, for me at least, no newspaper delivered to your door each morning.

Some people cope with the isolation better than others. I fought off the effects of news deprivation by grabbing a bike and hitting the road to discover some of the best views imaginable. I ended up parking the bike and climbing for about 40-minutes to Kim’s Lookout — which has stunning views of the cobalt-coloured lagoon, which was to be my next destination.

Islander Cruises offers a selection of glass-bottom boat trips. I took the specialised snorkelling tour (two hours, $45) and that meant I got to dive on four sites (Erscott’s Hole; Comet’s Hole, Horseshoe and Stephen’s Hole).

I’m pretty sure the fish at Erscott’s Hole — our first dive stop — are used to being fed from the boat because as soon as we arrived a swarm of colour came swimming toward us. The curious butterfly fish are particularly stunning, and curious. At our last dive site I looked down and noticed a pair of reef sharks drifting below us. I swear I even heard the Jaws “dar-dum” music. Despite assurances that they were friendly I was very happy to be heading back to land.

Check out the island’s history

A good place to learn about the island’s history is at the museum, which has displays that chart its early days as a stopover point for whaling ships to information about the palm industry and some fascinating insights into the number of shipwrecks that have happened in this area.

While on the island I also stayed at Pinetrees, a sixth-generation Lord Howe family resort business. Pinetrees’ guests are loyal. They come back again and again, according to Luke Hanson. Some have been returning for decades.

When I arrive only a few guests bother to look up from their books, but not many. Pinetrees is not about being seen or even noticed. It is about relaxing and recharging the batteries. People arrive at one hectic speed and leave at a far more chilled pace.

You know you are on holidays when you wander across the road for sundowners at the Boatshed. Guests gather each evening, drink beer or wine in hand, sand between their toes, and chat about life. It doesn’t take long for the chilled-out vibe to engulf you.