Born-again Albury attitude attracting travellers
There’s so much more to Albury than just the mighty Murray River. This regional NSW city, and its surrounds, is experiencing something of a rebirth. More and more people are abandoning big cities to find peace and quiet – and affordable living – in regional Australia. As they migrate to places such as Albury and nearby Corowa, they are establishing luxury hotels, artisan bakeries and high-end restaurants. They are also making a living doing the things they love, instead of wasting hours commuting in capital cities. Every new business or craftsman that puts out an “open for business” sign is another reason for tourists to visit.
A BOLD NEW CONCEPT IN LUXURY
Kevin Yaxley, the man behind the micro-hotel chain CIRCA, last year opened the doors at the two-suite CIRCA 1928 in Dean St, Albury.
Every centimetre of this former Commonwealth Bank building has been meticulously made over. Kevin and his partner Ririn have created something of a bold new concept for rural Australia, a luxury spa hotel.
The $500-a-couple price point is a little incongruous for Albury, where other establishments charge about $150 a night. But this is not like other hotels, and it is not meant to be. CIRCA 1928 is a statement. So too is CIRCA 1936 in Corowa, the brand’s first project. Both hotels offer levels of luxury that rival some of the best boutique hotels in the world. Kevin believes Albury is ready for such a hotel and spa. Time will tell, as this really is a bold gamble.
Albury’s reputation as a big country town with a warm welcome is just the beginning. There are a growing number of options for travellers looking for some unexpected luxuries. If you take the six-hour drive south from Sydney, or the 3½ hour drive north from Melbourne, here’s how to make the most of Albury.
WHERE TO EAT IN ALBURY
Socialite Molly Fink, born in 1894, would have loved the Public House. Publican Jodie Tiernan has created the Molly Fink cocktail bar as the centrepiece of the cavernous hotel in the main street of Albury. There’s a large photo of Fink on the wall of the bar with details of her incredible story.
Fink was an Australian who married, against the wishes of King George V, Martanda Bhairava Tondaiman – Raja of Pudukkottai. Fink’s marriage to the Indian rajah caused a stir, not least because she was known to enjoy partying.
It is said that the rajah’s family tried to poison her, forcing the couple to flee India to travel the world and enjoy the best the US, Britain and France had to offer. Jodie says that as far as she knows Fink never made it to Albury, but she hopes this bar recreates some of the fun that she had in her life. And it does. The Public House has an inventive cocktail menu that includes Molly’s Margarita, Finks French Cosmo and Molly’s Mojito. It’s well worth a visit for a cocktail or to enjoy the well-priced traditional Australian gastropub fare.
Chef Ludo Baulacky clearly had a lot of fun putting together the breakfast menu for The River Deck Cafe. The menu, as much as possible, takes advantage of local produce but it is also unlike any other menu I’ve seen so far this year. The culinary concoctions pop in your mouth. It’s only a matter of time before Ludo collects some serious awards for his food.
I had the Mansfield Trout LP, beetroot-cured, rosti, poached eggs, pesto, beetroot, organ, bitter leaves and fennel ($18.50). Perfect. As the name suggests, this restaurant sits on the banks of the Murray, surrounded by old trees and parkland, and it’s the perfect family escape – especially on the weekend.
TRIPE, YES. GOOD, YES.
I’m not a tripe eater. From my memories of it as a child, it’s offal. But Matt Fuller did such an enthusiastic job describing it when I asked him what the house specialty at Bistro Selle was, that I had no choice but to order it. Chef Tara Davis has created a crispy tripe, curry, boudin noir dish that is so good it could influence a new generation to become tripe lovers.
“It has been on the menu for over a year now and I’m not sure if we will be able to take it off,’’ Matt says. “We want to push the boundaries, but keep somewhat traditional to technique, and pay homage to the less idolised cuts keeping to within the humble construct of the restaurant world.”
Design wise, Bistro Selle has a distinct European feel to it. The menu is small which allows Bistro Selle to focus on the dishes that they do best. Also try Nord Bakery (499 Ebden St, South Albury), The Proprietor (459 Townsend St, Albury), the Royal Hotel (Corowa) and Canvas Eatery (inside MAMA, 546 Dean St, Albury).
THINGS TO DO IN ALBURY
The Murray Art Museum Albury pushes the boundaries for a rural town, forcing locals and tourists alike to be bold when thinking about art and the power it has to inspire a community. Its exhibitions tend to be more contemporary than traditional.
The Spa at CIRCA 1928 compares favourably to anything you will find anywhere in the world. From luxurious treatment rooms with dive-in copper baths, to Balinese inspired treatments that reflect indigenous healing rituals, this is a truly unexpected piece of gold.
It also has the wow factor with its ratus therapy, an ancient Indonesian cleansing tradition for women. The pre-wedding “smoking” ritual dating back to the Majapahit kingdom is said to cleanse, fight infection and “infuse your private areas”. A 2½-hour ratus session costs $310.
Is there anything more decadent than a copper bath? Picture: Circa Hotels and Spas
WALKING TOURS ALBURY AND COROWA
Both Albury and Corowa are easy to walk around and have created tours to help visitors understand the region’s unique history. If you download the Albury Historic Buildings Tour app and follow the instructions, the two-hour walking tour will take you on a journey past 21 social, political and economic landmarks of the city. The 5km Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk along the Murray River showcases 11 sculptures by Aboriginal artists.
Walk the Corowa History Trail and it will eventually deliver you to the captivating Corowa Federation Museum. Here you can find out the real story behind the “tar boy” in Tom Roberts’s famous Shearing the Rams painting. You can discover why Corowa is known as the birthplace of Federation. We owe a lot to Corowa for the role it played in Australia joining the Commonwealth in 1901.
WHISKEY & CHOCOLATE
Now that’s a match made in heaven. Dean Druce, the owner of Corowa Whisky and Chocolate, spent years in Scotland learning how to make whisky before returning home to turn a 1920s flour mill into a whisky production powerhouse.
This business is still in its infancy, but take a tour around the distillery with Druce, taste his whisky, eat at the restaurant, and you can’t help but get caught up in his enthusiasm for whisky and Belgium-style chocolate. The first release was called “First Drop” and it was a single malt whisky with an alcohol content level of 63.1 per cent. Despite the high alcohol level, it does slide smoothly down the back of your throat.
WHERE TO STAY
There’s no doubt that when you walk into CIRCA 1928 Albury and CIRCA 1936 Corowayou will recognise them as close family members. They share the same design DNA, similar furnishings, and emit the same feeling of understated luxury. For me, this means that the hotel really understands its guests.
The staff go out of their way to help you create memories. It would be difficult to pick fault with these hotels. They feel like New Zealand’s famous lodges. CIRCA 1928 is more orientated towards its exclusive spa offering, while CIRCA 1936, with three grand rooms, feels more like walking into your rich uncle’s country property.
Except your rich uncle probably wouldn’t pour you a citrus and rosemary bath at the end of the day. The hotel team here is doing its part to showcase the best of the local region through its wine collection housed in the old bank safe.
This story was first published in The Daily Telegraph.
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Stuart Forster
I paused in Albury to fill my car while driving up to Sydney but missed out on this beaut of a place. Looks very good. I ended up camping instead!