Desert delight in Abu Dhabi’s Empty Quarter

The desert is quiet, and peaceful. I hold my breath and listen. Nothing.

The sun shows itself in the distance and the mountains of sand that surround me instantly react. The colours change. The reds become richer, shadows form over the waves of sand and a breeze dances into life.

The new day always arrives with a breeze in the desert. And then much to my surprise the band strikes up. Not the whole band. It’s more like a tuba solo.

As my guide steps down the dune he causes the sand to move and vibrate. As the sand settles again the vibrations create a sound of a tuba. The deep notes echo across the vast emptiness.

There are really only two times to walk Abu Dhabi’s empty quarter – sunrise or sunset. The rest of the time it’s too bloody hot.

The day always starts early

This was one time when jet lag really did work in my favour. The desert walk leaves Qasr Al Sarab resort at 5.15 each morning.

It was my first day in Abu Dhabi and I was wide awake at 4.30am in my villa playing online scrabble with someone back in Australia called Words Illustrated in between applying sunscreen and stretching the hamstrings in readiness for the dune assault.

A young Englishman, whose hair is still dripping wet, drives us for 15 minutes along what was, a very long time ago, a river bed to the place where our climb begins.

Scaling sand dunes is not easy. For every two steps forward you slide one step back, sometimes three.

More times than I care to admit, I’m left gasping for air. Even though the sun is yet to rise, it’s hot. The temperature slips past 40C on most days in this patch of paradise in June.

We are about 25km from the Saudi border. We are a little over two hours from Abu Dhabi international airport. Apart from this 5-star resort there’s hardly anything else here.

It is the most unlikely place to find an oasis. Perhaps that’s the point.

Abu Dhabi’s Empty Quarter is full or surprises

There are no designer shopping malls. There’s not a theme park to be found anywhere.

So why would anyone come here?

Well for a start, this is one of the most stunning hotels I have stayed in. It is the flagship of the Anantara group, and that says a lot.

At first glance it looks like an ancient fort that has survived many battles through the ages. The reality is that it opened two years ago, built from scratch. Ironically, I’m told, that even though it is the middle of a desert, sand had to be transported to the site during the building. Apparently desert sand castles don’t stand the test of time.

The crescent-shaped buildings are spread out over the dunes and look straight down that now parched, salty river bed.

The hotel has 400 rooms and villas, including a royal pavilion which is far enough away from the main resort to be completely private.

Keeping the heat out

The main reception area is a stunning entry point for guests and its first impression is memorable. It spills over several levels and is the central point of the resort. Hundreds, perhaps, thousands of Arabian lanterns lead you on your journey of discovery. Every different level of the main building opens out on to covered verandas where people simply sit and watch the desert.

For those who like a comforting airconditioned view, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized glass doors allow the desert feeling to permeate the inside.

The colours of the desert are used in all buildings at the resort. This hotel blends in with the landscape.

My villa, No.39, is bigger than many suburban Australian houses. The decor perfectly suits the environment. You are never in any doubt that you are in the Middle East instead of chocolates being left on your pillow, the efficient friendly staff bring goodie boxes of Arabic sweets and dates.

We have a plunge pool in case we need to cool off and two shaded resting areas for sitting outside.

And that’s another reason people come here. The isolation, and heat, forces you to relax. You can visit the spa, dive in the pool, or just read a book. You cannot help but slow down.

ABU DHABI IN DETAIL

Etihad flies to Abu Dhabi from Sydney.
Qasr Al Sarab is about a two-hour drive from Abu Dhabi. To book go to anantara.com

• Abu Dhabi translates as ‘Father of the Gazelle’, a reference made to the story of the first settled tribes to see herds of gazelle grazing.

• Abu Dhabi is the largest of the seven emirates that make up the United Arab Emirates. It holds 80% the nation’s oil reserves, and supplies almost 10% of the world’s oil.

• Abu Dhabi’s national carrier, the multi-award-winning Etihad Airways, is the fastest growing airline in the world and flies to over 60 destinations. In 2008, it flew more than six million passengers.